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Mawda Altayan’s comforting dish is an international feast with beef, carrots, peas, and warm spices.


ground beef with carrots, peas and turmeric rice with tziakiki sauce
Ouzi Rice

Last year, my friend Barb and I joined about 10 home cooks for a class offered through Welcome Neighbor St. Louis. This agency’s mission is “to partner with refugee and immigrant families, connecting them with the people and opportunities that will empower them to build and live their best life in their new country.” Welcome Neighbor also does drive-through supper clubs and offers cooking classes featuring chefs and cooks from Africa, Syria, and Afghanistan. One of those professionals is Mawda Altayan.


I first tasted Mawda’s food in 2021 at a St. Louis Culinary Society (SLCS) event that she and husband, Mohi, catered. Each dish she prepared was new to me, yet there were elements of familiarity that made this new cuisine easy to embrace.


When I learned she was teaching a class for Welcome Neighbor, I had to participate. Ouzi Rice was one of the dishes I enjoyed at the SLCS event, and I wanted to know how she made it.


Mawda, who is originally from Damascus, Syria, but also lived in Egypt, said the dish is a staple in Syrian households. Throughout the Arab world, ouzi is often made with lamb, but I’ve seen recipes using chicken and ground beef, too. One constant, however, is the fluffy rice laced with complex spices, which really makes the dish sing. Mawda’s tzatziki was the perfect accompaniment.


And, in keeping with this month's budget-friendly theme, Ouzi Rice is economical and feeds at least eight people. I estimated this recipe to cost approximately $3.50 per serving (including dried mint, turmeric, hadash or 7-Spice, and ghee; if you don't buy 7 Spice and make your own from pantry items as described, it's a little less per serving).



Syrian woman holds plate with rice, carrots and ground beef mixture
Mawda Altayan shows her comforting dish of ouzi rice.

To make Ouzi Rice, which yields eight servings, you’ll need these ingredients:

  • 4 cups basmati rice, washed

  • ½ large yellow onion, chopped

  • 2 tablespoons corn or vegetable oil

  • 1 pound ground beef

  • 2½ teaspoon kosher salt

  • 1 bag carrot chips (or 2 to 3 whole carrots peeled and chopped)

  • 2 tablespoons ghee (jarred clarified butter)

  • ½ teaspoon black pepper

  • ¼ teaspoon habash

  • ¼ teaspoon turmeric

  • ¼ teaspoon cardamon

  • 8 ounces frozen peas

To make tzatziki, you’ll need these ingredients:

  • 3 small (pickling size) cucumbers, diced

  • 2 peeled garlic cloves

  • ½ teaspoon salt

  • 32 ounces whole milk yogurt, plain

  • 1 tablespoon dried mint

  • ¼ teaspoon salt

Check out the recipe card below for step-by-step instruction, but there are essentially two parts to this dish: preparing the beef and veg mixture and finishing the rice.


Mawda said it’s important to rinse all the starch off the basmati rice. She soaked and drained the rice three times over 30 minutes, but usually it’s fine to let running water pour over the grains in a fine colander until the liquid from the rice is clear. Don’t skip this step for fluffy rice.


She then cooked the onion in oil until it started to turn translucent before adding the beef and cooking that until brown. There’s a lot of flavors in this dish thanks to the spices, so make it easy on yourself and buy lean ground beef to avoid draining fat from your meat and onion. She added ½ teaspoon salt with pepper and the carrots and cooked this mixture about 15 minutes before adding the frozen peas.


ground beef browns with onions in saucepan
Brown beef with onions before adding other vegetables.

In a separate pot, Mawda added the ghee and bloomed the turmeric, habash, and cardamon in the clarified butter before adding the rice to coat with this mixture. You can find ghee in many supermarkets, including Fresh Thyme. Habash is an Arabic mixture of seven spices. It’s available online or check out international markets in your area. You also can make a spice mixture, too, using pantry ingredients.


Hot water was added along with 2 teaspoons of salt. The rice cooked about 30 minutes for the liquid to be absorbed. The fragrance of the ghee and spices filled the kitchen.



bottles of black pepper, turmeric and habash on kitchen table
Habash may be a new spice mixture to you. Also known as 7 Spice, you can find it in international markets or purchase online.

Mawda finished the dish with roasted cashews and a dollop of her tzatziki. If you’re in a pinch for time, buy tzatziki, but her version really was easy to make. She turned the garlic into paste using the salt and a mortar and pestle. Then the paste, cucumbers, mint, and salt simply were stirred into the cool yogurt.


The class dug in, and everyone agreed it was a satisfying and tasty meal. She said leftovers keep well in the refrigerator for a few days; otherwise, freeze it. As I was enjoying my plate of delicious Ouzi Rice, it struck me how every culture has its version of comfort food, and it often involves rice. Food is a perfect gateway to different cultures, and when you sit down to a meal to sample new food with folks from various backgrounds, you realize we’re all more alike than different.


Mawda, a self-taught chef, said she learned to cook from the women in her family. It’s important to “put your love into cooking” and not stress about measurements or procedure.


She and Mohi have four young children, all under 12 years. Mawda said she came to the United States in 2016. Although her demos are not monthly, she said cooking classes are part of their catering business, Damascus Food. You’ll find Damascus Food on Facebook. Some of their most popular dishes include kibbeh, baklava, chicken shawarma sandwiches, baba ghanoush, hummus, and yalanji (stuffed) grape leaves.


Ouzi Rice isn’t replacing mac ‘n’ cheese in my kitchen but whenever I make it again, I’ll think about Mawda, the warm, hospitable, and kind woman who introduced me to the food of her original home. Give her recipe a try and let us know how it turned out for you!


Welcome Neighbor will hold a class about Afghan cooking on Jan. 26. Follow Welcome Neighbor on Facebook for info on upcoming supper clubs and other events.


 


Meet more home cooks with an international flair

Leslie Masaki brings Japanese and other Asian influences into her kitchen with dishes like New Year Noodles. Diane Carson embraces her English roots when making traditional sausage rolls.



About the blog

Three Women in the Kitchen is an award-winning food blog offering today’s home cooks comforting, hearty recipes with a personal touch. The website also pays tribute to Deborah’s mother, Katie Reinhardt, and paternal grandmother, Dorothy Reinhardt (the “three women” in the kitchen). Whether you’re an experienced or a novice cook, you’ll find inspiration here to feed your families and warm your heart. Subscribe today so you won’t miss a single delicious detail.

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For less than $10, you can make this healthy and economical pasta dish for your family.


penne or mostaccioli with beans, tomatoes, arugula, spinach, onion, garlic in a blue skillet
Penne with Cannellini and Greens

We’ve all felt the pinch of inflation. Let’s be real; last year was a tough one. Higher grocery prices are challenging many families, and (sadly) some feel the grip more acutely than others. NBC news reported in September that grocery costs were up over 13 percent in the last year.


Like many of you, I tried to make my money work harder for me by picking up a few tricks and experimenting with some tasty (and economical) recipes. I’ll pass along the tips through the month with you, but here's a recipe I think is a keeper. Penne with Cannellini and Greens, inspired by a recipe from the Canned Food Alliance, will feed four or five adults for—get this—under $10! In addition, it’s healthier than most pasta dinners, comes together in about 30 minutes, and fills your tummy with good things.


Cooking more plant-based meals can shave your grocery bill. I’m trying to eat at least one or two meat-free dinners per week. When I do have beef, pork, fish, or chicken, I trim the portions and find recipes to make it go further.


Because I didn’t grow up eating meatless meals, I had to do a little homework and purchased a few vegetarian cookbooks from my favorite chefs. The experimentation has been fun!


Another trick to stretching your grocery budget is keeping a well-stocked and hard-working pantry. If you need any inspiration, several home cooks shared their must-have pantry ingredients a few years ago. Penne with Cannellini and Greens is a great pantry recipe. The beans are a healthy protein and give this dish a creamy richness. Parsley and a bit of grated Parmesan finish the recipe. Let’s get cooking!


To make Penne with Cannellini and Greens, which yields four or five servings, you’ll need these ingredients:

  • 16 ounces penne (1 pound box)

  • ¼ cup olive oil

  • 5 garlic cloves, sliced

  • 1 medium onion, chopped

  • 5 ounces mixed greens with arugula and spinach

  • 1 (16-ounce) can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed

  • 1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes with juice

  • 2/3 cup white wine

  • ¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped

  • ¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan

  • Salt and pepper to taste

While the pasta is cooking, bring a large skillet (the bigger, the better; this makes a lot of pasta) up to medium-high heat and add oil. Add onion and cook for 2 minutes; it will start to turn translucent. Add the garlic and cook an additional minute (watch the garlic doesn’t brown).


Add the greens; these will wilt quickly. The market’s produce section has tubs of different salad greens; I used an arugula and spinach mixed. If you find escarole, the original recipe included this.


Next come the wine, beans, and tomatoes with juice. Simmer about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper to taste.


I use my spider skimmer to transfer cooked pasta into the skillet. Stir in Parmesan and add a few tablespoons of the pasta water to create a light sauce. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve. For extra richness (this is optional), add a tablespoon or two of butter.


If you don’t need four servings, cook ¾ of the pasta (about 12 ounces), but follow the rest of the recipe. Leftovers the next day are perfect for a lunch, but I wouldn’t recommend freezing this dish because of the delicate wilted greens.


This is a great weeknight dinner that’s light on the wallet and tummy. Honestly, after all the holiday sweets, roasts, casseroles, and so on, this was a welcome change for me. I hope you’ll give it a try; let me know in the comments below how your dish turned out. If you have a good vegetarian recipe to share with us, include that in the comments, too! We all need inspiration from time to time.

 


Looking for more hearty meatless dishes? Here are three for you to try!

Easy Zucchini Pie is a tasty part to brunch, lunch, or dinner, making use of this versatile vegetable that's available year-round. Another fast meal for a weeknight menu is Easy Baked Ravioli. Opt for the cheese-filled pasta and a simple marinara to keep it meatless. Tricolor Pasta with Roaster Butternut Squash is another meal that comes together in a flash. Save even more time by purchasing the squash already cleaned and cubed.


About the blog

Three Women in the Kitchen is an award-winning food blog offering today’s home cooks comforting, hearty recipes with a personal touch. The website also pays tribute to Deborah’s mother, Katie Reinhardt, and paternal grandmother, Dorothy Reinhardt (the “three women” in the kitchen). Whether you’re an experienced or a novice cook, you’ll find inspiration here to feed your families and warm your heart. Subscribe today so you won’t miss a single delicious detail.





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Writer's picturedeborahreinhardt

Updated: Dec 23, 2022

Buckwheat noodles in broth, the traditional Japanese welcome to a new year, are a tasty component to the Masaki family's festive Shōgatsu feast.


Homecook, Leslie Masaki, at her 2022 New Year table. The traditional table decorations include kagami mochi (foreground, left) that has two rice cakes and symbolizes longevity/long life.


For many of us, celebrating New Year’s Eve involves a house party with the typical appetizers and dips or maybe dinner and a movie. The younger crowd might opt for a night of drinks and dancing followed by an Uber ride home.


But at the Masaki home, New Year’s Eve is a varied banquet of Japanese delicacies lovingly prepared days in advance by the whole family. My good friend, Leslie Masaki, directs this culinary symphony. Each beautiful and detailed dish is rich in flavor and tradition. Leslie and husband, Stephen’s, New Year celebration is a feast for all the senses, and the St. Louis couple have shared it every year with friends and family since 2015, although they celebrated the new year in California in years past with his family.


Leslie and Stephen met while studying at Washington University in St. Louis, Missouri. Their backgrounds couldn’t be more different. Stephen is a fourth-generation Japanese American who grew up in Hawaii. Leslie’s Jewish ancestors emigrated to the U.S. from Europe between 1860 and 1890. They have successfully blended their individual stories into a rich heritage for their two children, Hale (a college senior) and Sela (a high school senior), and this is evident around their family table.


She emphasizes, "in our #VeryAsian Jewish household, food is a mash-up of all things all the time.”


“We combine all of our traditions into whatever we’re doing, such as Matsurukkah, a mash-up of ‘festival’ in Japanese and Chanukah, where we eat traditional Japanese foods fried in oil for Chanukah. It’s usually yaki soba and tako yaki (ball-shaped Japanese snack made with okonomiyaki batter and filled with octopus in the center) with latkes,” she says.


New Year (Shōgatsu or Oshogatsu) is the most important holiday in Japan. All duties and responsibilities are completed by the end of the year so the new can begin fresh. Japanese celebrations begin New Year’s Eve and continue for three days. Leslie says prep for their celebration (not including shopping) starts three to five days before Dec. 31. And while New Year’s Eve is celebrated with friends and extended family, the remaining days of Oshogatsu is celebrated with their immediate family.


Happy New Year from the Masaki family, from left: Leslie, Hale, Sela, and Stephen. The entire family helps to prepare the feast of traditional Japanese and Hawaiian New Year foods. (Photo courtesy Leslie Masaki)

A mother's influence

An accomplished home cook, Leslie says her mother, Barbara Weil, introduced her to the kitchen.


“I was about 9 or 10,” Leslie says. “I distinctly remember being in the kitchen with her and learning the basics. Later, it expanded to learning traditional family recipes like brisket, chocolate ice box cake (a recipe from my great grandmother), and other holiday dishes like potato latkes.”


When Leslie and Stephen married, another matriarch—his mom, Betty Masaki—taught her about Japanese and Hawaiian cuisine. Betty was a culinary instructor for 35 years and often taught Japanese women in Japan and Hawaii how to make traditional food for New Year.


“Every time I was with her, I tried to learn three recipes,” Leslie says. “The lessons would begin with going to the Japanese grocery store and learning what to buy (before English was included on labels). I still buy those same brands today. Those lessons included preparing for New Year. I had the opportunity and honor of helping prepare for New Year multiple times. Now that she is gone, I consult with my sister-in-law, Jaynie Mitchell, if I have a question. We always compare our tables, which usually look very similar!”


And the New Year table in a Japanese home is very intentional in its preparation and presentation.


Osechi-ryōri are traditional Japanese New Year foods. Leslie says Osechi are easily recognizable by their special boxes called jūbako, which resemble bentō boxes. Like bentō boxes, jūbako are often kept stacked before and after use.


“Our table resembles Oshechi by using my lacquered boxes and antique Japanese dishes from Steve’s folks, other Japanese dishes, and my vintage Lazy Susan from my grandmother,” she says.


For the Masaki family, osechi-ryōri are:

  • Black bean/Kuromame: くろまめ (koo-rō-mā-meh), represents good health and robust potential for the eater

  • Lotus root/Renkon: レンコン (re-n-kō-n), boiled and sliced so that the delicate wheel of life shape is enhanced

  • Burdock root/Gobo: ゴボウ (gō-bō), the roots strike deep into the soil, just like how family roots can be deeply set

  • Rice cake/Mochi: もち (mō-chee), longevity/long life

  • Bamboo shoot/Takenoko: たけのこ (tā-keh-nō-kō) believed to attract good luck and prosperity.

  • Citrus orange/Dai dai: だいだい (da-yee-da-yee), generation to generation, good wishes for a strong and prosperous life

  • Dried persimmon/Hoshigaki: ほしがき (hō-she-gā-kee), health and success in life, transformation

  • New Year’s noodles/Toshikoshi soba: としこしそば (tō-she-kō-she-sō-bā), long noodles for long life, buckwheat noodles for strength and resiliency

  • Mirror rice cake/Kagami mochi: かがみもち (kā-gā-mee-mō-chee), mochi gives strength, 2 mochi discs represent going and coming years/yin and yang/the human heart/the moon and sun, resembles old-style copper mirror, hence "mirror rice cake"


To that list, Leslie adds a selection of favorite Hawaiian New Year dishes like macaroni salad, teriyaki chicken, and some type of Jell-O. Seafood rounds out the traditional foods (Leslie offers fresh crab and house-smoked salmon).


Leslie’s New Year’s noodles/toshikoshi soba are inspired by recipes from the Japan Centre and Alton Brown—no surprise from the queen of mash-ups. While the noodles are the symbolic star of this dish, it’s the broth I love most. Savory and complex flavors are so comforting for a winter meal. I think it’s the marriage of complex with familiar that makes Asian cuisine so popular. Using St. Louis as an example, two of eight best restaurants that opened in 2022, according to Sauce magazine, are Asian eateries.


With the list of unfamiliar ingredients, Japanese cooking may seem daunting to many home cooks, but Leslie suggests getting a good cookbook like this one from the St. Louis chapter of Japanese American Citizens League. Learning where to source ingredients is another helpful tip.


The New Year’s noodles would be a good recipe to start with. Ingredients can be found locally either at your grocer, at an Asian grocery, or online. For example, Leslie uses a powder to start her dashi soup stock.






In addition to sharing their culinary heritage with friends, Stephen has directed the Seinen Kai food booth at the annual Japanese Festival since 1993. Their entire family pitches in to organize an army of volunteers and to make the yaki soba and okonomiyaki. Stephen and Leslie really are local culinary ambassadors. A St. Louis tradition since 1977, the festival is held over Labor Day weekend at the Missouri Botanical Garden.


This New Year, add their Toshikoshi Soba to your menu and begin 2023 with the intention to expand your table with food from other countries. Food, after all, is the gateway to discovering and respecting cultures different than our own.


About the blog

Three Women in the Kitchen is an award-winning food blog offering today’s home cooks comforting, hearty recipes with a personal touch. The website also pays tribute to Deborah’s mother, Katie Reinhardt, and paternal grandmother, Dorothy Reinhardt (the “three women” in the kitchen). Whether you’re an experienced or a novice cook, you’ll find inspiration here to feed your families and warm your heart. Subscribe today so you won’t miss a single delicious detail.



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