Louisiana Gumbo with Chicken, Andouille and Shrimp

This hearty dish satisfies with rich flavor and delivers a real taste of the South.

Gumbo with shredded chicken, andouille sausage and shrimp is served over white rice.

Food connects us to many memories, and for me, enjoying a bowl of gumbo transports me back to Louisiana. This recipe based on one by Louisiana chef Patrick Mould takes about two hours to make (add another hour if you’re making homemade roux), but it’s worth every minute you’ll spend in the kitchen. Authentic flavors in this gumbo are even better when rewarmed the next day. What better way to observe National Gumbo Day on Oct. 12?

Nearly 20 years ago, I had the great fortune to travel and eat my way through Louisiana. I was the editor of a new magazine for AAA members in the state, so what better way to get immersed in a culture than through its food? Time hasn’t dulled my memory of the savory meat pies in Natchitoches, Antoine’s oysters Rockefeller in New Orleans, and cracklins and boudin balls in Lafayette. It was during this trip that I met chef Mould, a wonderful guardian of Louisiana’s Creole and Cajun culinary recipes. He was so open with our group, eager to share his love and knowledge of Louisiana cooking.

That’s what impresses me about Louisiana cooks. Whether we’re talking about an award-winning chef or a seasoned home cook, they are so mindful about what they’re doing. Because food simply isn’t fuel for their bodies; it’s a form of artistic expression and a way of preserving a culture. The thought and care that goes into every dish inspire me to be better. And there's no better recipe for gumbo than this one.

For this recipe you will need:

• 1 stewing chicken

• 1 pound andouille sausage

• 1 pound frozen shrimp

• 14 cups water

• 2 tablespoons Cajun seasoning

• 2 bay leaves

• 1 cup chopped onion

• ½ cup chopped celery

• ½ chopped green pepper

• 1 tablespoon minced garlic

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 2 teaspoons Louisiana hot sauce

• 1 cup dark roux

• rice, green onion for serving

Let’s address the elephant in the room: the roux. Debate rages about making it yourself or buying it in a jar. According to the Southern Foodways Alliance, cooks for centuries have argued about how light or dark a roux (basically cooked fat and flour) should be. Similarly, there’s disagreement about tomatoes (in or out) and the thickness of gumbo. But everyone agrees that gumbo is as analogous to Louisiana as chili is to Texas.

I’ve made roux; the end result usually is blond in color (the darkest I’ve been able to go is tan). It’s a question of patience for me, because to make a dark chocolate-colored roux, a cook has to stand and stir for close to an hour, teetering close to burning the mixture and thus ending in disaster. I’m not that brave without an experienced Southern cook by my side to coach me through the process. So, it’s a jar of dark roux for me, which isn’t easy to find in my neck of the woods. A favorite of many cooks is Savoie’s old-fashioned dark roux. However, if you want to make your own, here’s a good recipe from the Acadiana Table website, which also sells its brand of prepared roux. There also are a variety of dried roux in pouches, consisting of the cooked flour, that many people dissolve in hot water before adding to their gumbo pot.

But before you need the roux, you’ll have to make the chicken stock for the gumbo. In a large stock pot, cover a cleaned, whole chicken (about 2½ pounds) with 14 cups of water. Add a tablespoon of Cajun seasoning and bay leaf. Bring water to a boil, then turn down to simmer and cook for 45 minutes.

Remove chicken to a board and allow to cool before breaking it down, discarding skin and shredding the meat. Strain the liquid and set it aside; you'll need 12 cups of the stock for your gumbo.

Let's start by setting a large (four-quart) pot over medium-high heat, brown the sausage and add the onion, celery, green pepper (the Cajun Holy Trinity) and garlic; cook for five minutes. Add reserved chicken stock and bring to a boil; add dark roux, lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Hot sauce and remaining Cajun seasoning simmer for an additional 30 minutes. Coarsely chop the chicken and add, along with the shrimp, and simmer for 10 minutes.

The gumbo is served over a mound of white rice with green onion and parsley garnish (that’s optional).

I can't find andouille sausage. This Cajun-style sausage, while more available today thanks to Cajun cooking's popularity, may not be easily found in all markets. You could swap out a smoked sausage or even ham.

This makes a lot of gumbo! Can I freeze a portion? You bet! While the gumbo could be stored in the refrigerator for a few days, it's best to freeze leftovers. Like chili, gumbo tastes better reheated.

Gumbo has been a part of Louisiana’s food scene since the early 19th century. The variety of Southern gumbos can include wild game, oysters, crabs, veal or steak (to name but a short list of ingredients). You’d see some of these varieties in New Iberia, Louisiana, at its annual gumbo cook-off always on the second weekend of October (this year, it’s Oct. 9 and 10). The Southern Foodways Alliance offers a short, informative history about gumbo, as well as a Gumbo Trail to explore, on its website.

Since my first visit to Louisiana many years ago, I’ve learned to appreciate the complexities of this dish that go hand-in-hand with the familiar comforting qualities it offers. This classic Louisiana gumbo surely will add a little lagniappe (something extra) to your table.

---

Apple Cinnamon Quick Bread with Salted Caramel Sauce

Our favorite fall flavors are in each delicious bite of this simple-to-make but comforting bread.

Apple Cinnamon Quick Bread bakes up moist and delicious.

If you want a change from pumpkin bread (the official quick bread of autumn), you won’t be disappointed with this recipe. Cinnamon Apple Quick Bread comes together in no time (you don’t even need a mixer) yet delivers big fall flavors, including warm cinnamon and ginger plus sweet apples and raisins. I love having a slice in the morning with my coffee. But add the salted caramel sauce and it makes a no-fuss but delicious dessert. My family loves this recipe, and I think yours will, too.

The inspiration came from an old cookbook published by Elsah Landing, a long-gong restaurant that started in the tiny southern Illinois village of Elsah before opening another location in west St. Louis County. Elsah Landing was known for it’s soups, breads and desserts, and its cookbook (which my mom purchased during one of our visits) captures some of the restaurant's best recipes.

I used the book’s quantities for basic ingredients and then added some combinations of my own, including the ginger, raisins and the sauce. The recipe’s versatility opens up other combinations, such as diced pears with dried cranberries and walnuts. So, let’s get to baking.

For this recipe, you will need:

• 3 cups flour

• 2 cups sugar

• 2 teaspoons baking powder

• 2 teaspoons cinnamon

• 2 teaspoons ginger

• 1½ teaspoons baking soda

• ¼ teaspoon salt

• 4 eggs

• 1 cup vegetable oil

• 2 apples

• 1 cup golden raisins

• salted caramel sauce

• milk

In addition, you'll need 4 eggs, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda and 1/4 teaspoon salt for Cinnamon Quick Bread.

This will make two nine-inch bread loaves. The dry ingredients are combined separately first, with the eggs and oil whisked together in a separate bowl and then added. I noticed this dough, which is mixed by hand, is pretty stiff; I pressed the dough into the loaf pan. But the bread came out super moist. It’s baked about 45 minutes at 350 degrees.

To serve the bread as a dessert, drizzle your favorite sea salt caramel sauce that’s been thinned with a bit of milk on to a plate and set the bread on the sauce. Spoon a little more over the slice if you’d like. I recently discovered sea salt caramel sauce by Stonewall Kitchens. Of course, you could make salted caramel sauce, but I think Stonewall does a very good job and saves me some time. One of my favorite shops in my neighborhood, Patterson Family Farms General Store carries Stonewall sauces, jams and dips.

You’ve noted that the leavening in this (and any) quick bread are baking powder and baking soda, not yeast; therefore, these breads are “quick” to make compared to those that have to rise in a bowl over a number of hours before baking.

It's interesting to me that quick breads became popular in the United States in the late 17th century after the introduction of commercial baking soda in 1846 (Arm & Hammer company). While Civil War soldiers weren’t fed banana bread, they did make use of baking soda to make Johnny Cakes, which certainly were more palatable than hardtack but was just as portable.

The quick bread family also includes biscuits, muffins, flatbreads; so, in reality, where would today’s baker be without baking soda and powder? Just remember that these ingredients will start to lose their effectiveness after the “use by” date, causing your baked goods not to rise properly. An opened container of baking soda or baking powder will last probably six months at room temperature. After that, sprinkle baking soda down your kitchen sink to freshen the drain or sprinkle on carpet and vacuum to neutralize pet orders. Just throw out expired baking powder. Kitchen tip: to test your baking soda or powder for effectiveness, drop a pinch into hot water. If it fizzes, you’re good to go.

How to freeze quick breads

Because this recipe for Apple Cinnamon Quick Bread will make two loaves, you’ll need to freeze one of them (if you don’t give it to a friend, that is). Just tightly wrap the loaf in aluminum foil and place in a freezer bag; I like the reusable food storage bags that are BPA free. You’ll find these almost anywhere now; I ordered a pack of 10 last January from Amazon. If you follow these steps, your bread should be good in the freezer for up to four months, but I know you won’t be able to leave it in there that long because it’s too darn good!

Apple Cinnamon Quick Bread with Salted Caramel Sauce takes me back to south St. Louis and memories of Merb’s Candies on South Grand Boulevard. The famous candy store is still there, and each autumn, workers are in full production mode for the Bionic Apples. Huge apples are covered in buttery, rich caramel and crowned with salted pecans. My parents always bought some when they were in season. However, Dad preferred the candied apple and Merb’s sauerkraut candy (sort of a vanilla fudge with shredded coconut).

Honestly, I think autumn is the season for comfort foods because of the warming flavors and the cooking methods, such as braising, stewing and roasting. This Wednesday will mark the beginning of fall, and I couldn’t be happier! I love this time of year because it gives us all permission to slow down and get ready to tuck in for winter.

I hope you’ll give this Apple Cinnamon Quick Bread recipe a try and enjoy a slice with a cup of tea, put your feet up, and enjoy the moment.

---

Comforting Vegetable Soup

A garden of veggies and Italian sausage come together in a bowl of healthy comfort for autumn.

Comforting Vegetable Soup with Italian Sausage

Few dishes can cross cultural lines as beautifully as soup does. It’s a global comfort food, and for me, a warm bowl of broth with herbs and vegetables is like a comforting hug. Soup makes me want to put on fuzzy socks and watch a classic movie.

Everyone has a favorite soup; mine is vegetable, and this comforting recipe—while not authentically Italian—borrows from Italy’s pantry with ingredients such as salsiccia, tomatoes, garlic, oregano and rosemary. It’s hearty enough to stand as a meal on its own, but works well as a first course. And maybe best of all, my Comforting Vegetable Soup comes together in under 90 minutes.

For this recipe you will need:

• 4 cups (1 32-ounce box) vegetable stock

• 1 onion

• 3 cloves garlic

• 2 stalks celery

• 2 yellow potatoes

• 2 cups chopped kale

• 1 can white beans

• 1 large can whole tomatoes

• 1 (16-ounce) frozen bag mixed vegetables (you’ll use about half)

• 4 links salsiccia

• rosemary

• bay leaf

• dried oregano

• salt and pepper

• olive oil

The mirepoix for this soup is 3 cloves garlic, 2 stalks celery and 1 onion. Chop the onion and celery and slice garlic.

Let’s Start Cooking

Chop the onion, garlic and celery for your soup’s base. Add two tablespoons of olive oil to a large stock pot (on medium-high heat) and sweat the veggies. Add potatoes and cook about three minutes.

For the Italian sausage, you can remove the casings before cooking or cut into coin-size bites. Whatever your preference, that’s fine. Sausage is added to the pot and browned. I added the dried oregano at this stage and stirred ingredients before adding the stock, tomatoes, fresh rosemary and the bay leaf. Add salt and pepper to taste. Turn down heat and simmer for about 30-40 minutes.

At this point, I added the kale, beans and frozen mixed vegetables (usually carrots, peas, corn and green beans). I tasted the broth to see if more seasonings were needed, adding more salt and oregano. It simmered about 30-35 additional minutes.

This recipe is similar to my mom’s signature Mormon Soup. She also made a wicked-good three-bean soup, ham and split pea for my dad, creamy potato, beer and cheese soup, broccoli and cheese soup, and Famous-Barr’s French Onion (a must for any St. Louis cook.) Those are at least the ones I can remember.

When I had a cold as a kid, vegetable soup was part of my treatment (that and lots of Vicks Vapor Rub). I’ll bet your mom also served you soup to feel better, which isn’t surprising considering French street vendors sold soup as an anecdote for physical exhaustion during the 16th century. A century later in Paris, an entrepreneur opened a shop specializing in these soups, and behold, the modern restaurant industry was born. If you’d like to know more about the history of soup, I recommend the book, Soup Through the Ages by Victoria R. Rumble, that also includes dozens of recipes.

Nostalgia aside, our moms and grandmothers also understood that in addition to being good for you, soup was one of the most economical dishes they could make. They also knew a pot of soup was a great way to use certain leftovers or any vegetable that had been in the fridge for a while. These practices still work today in our kitchens.

Let’s Talk Swap

And in the spirit of “use what you have,” it’s simple to swap out some of these ingredients to accommodate what’s in your pantry and refrigerator. The most obvious is to leave out the sausage for a tasty soup for Meatless Monday or to serve your vegetarian friends and family.

Other swap ideas include:

• Swiss chard or spinach for kale

• Small meatballs instead of sausage

• Pasta to replace potatoes

• Kidney or garbanzo beans for white beans (or leave beans out if you don’t like them)

Can I Freeze Soup?

Almost any soup can be frozen to enjoy later. They exceptions are cream-based soups. Comforting Vegetable Soup is perfect to freeze. Because I usually cook for two people, I reserve about half the soup for the freezer, and I like to divide that portion into single-servings. I like these two-cup bowls from Anchor Hocking because they are safe for the freezer and microwave (even the oven), and they go in the dishwasher for clean up. (Not a sponsored plug; I just like the product.)

Put Comforting Vegetable Soup into your recipe arsenal for fall and winter. Now more than ever, it’s important to keep our immune systems working while feeding our souls at the same time. And drop a comment below to share your favorite soup!

---